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For three decades, TENCEL™ lyocell has been part of denim, but mostly in the weft. Its smooth surface and fluid drape made it hard to use in the warp, the visible yarn that decides how jeans look after washing. In October 2025, Lenzing launched a fibre designed to change that, TENCEL™ Lyocell HV100, at Kingpins Amsterdam, and Azgard9 was one of the mills that brought it to life.
HV100 uses Lenzing's Variocut technology: controlled variation in staple length, from 10 to 28 mm, that mirrors naturally grown cotton. The result is an opaque, matte finish with clean indigo wash-downs, and TENCEL™ softness with more body.
The launch collection, Volume 1, brought together 17 mill partners from five countries: China, Egypt, Pakistan, Spain and Türkiye. Four development partners created the first fabrics, and 13 more mills contributed to the collection. Azgard 9 was one of those collection partners, alongside Artistic Denim Mills, Artistic Milliners, Bossa, Calik Denim, Diamond Denim, DNM, Kipas, Naveena Denim Mills, Naveena Denim Lahore, Neela by Sapphire, Soorty and US Denim Mills.
The fibre moved quickly. Within six months, HV100 grew from 17 to 37 mill partners across nine countries, and in March 2026 denim products made with it went on sale through one of the world's largest fashion retailers. "When a major global retailer puts the fiber on its shelves within months of launch, you know the market was ready," said Tuncay Kiliçkan, Lenzing's head of global business development, denim.
Key facts
- LaunchTENCEL™ Lyocell HV100, Kingpins Amsterdam, October 2025
- TechnologyVariocut, staple lengths of 10–28 mm for a cotton-like, matte look
- Volume 117 mill partners from 5 countries; Azgard9 among 13 collection partners
- Growth37 mill partners in 9 countries within six months
- Retailon sale at a major global retailer by March 2026
Developing new fibres with partners like Lenzing keeps Azgard9 ready to give brands authentic denim with a lighter footprint.
